If you have ever wondered what it would be like to live in the Elizabethan era, Mary Katrantzou provides you a glimpse of that period through her Fall 2012 collection. Katrantzou showcases English opulence and aristocracy through her usage of licentious textures and lavish shapes and prints.
Katrantzou’s eye for architectural shapes and construction transmits into a one-of-a-kind innovative and erratic aesthetic. She reported to collaborating with Lesage, the famous haute couture French embroidery house, to develop embellished fibers and sequined textiles for her collection.
“I’ve already done the peplum and hourglass,” she said backstage, “so I was looking for different silhouettes.” Instead, for this collection she uses everyday items such as spoons, a typewriter, hedges, pencils, and hangers to plaster onto the embroidered prints.
The collection synthesized Spanish influences with early 17th century faddisms. Tulip and a-line skirts, of which fitted flawlessly onto models’ waists, resembled similarity to hoop skirts and farthingales, prominent pieces in fashion during the 1600’s. High-necked chemises added onto bold shoulders giving the illusion of importance and nobility. Scarlet reds, emeralds, and canary yellows cemented onto whimsical prints to create luscious tinctures as if a box of crayons arrayed itself tranquilly onto the fabrics. Structural, body-conscious silhouettes accentuated onto model’s bodies to fit every curve, angle, and flection. Every piece presented a fluid, but soft elegance—as that to revive the mold of the Pre-Victorian style. Polish ornamentations such as suede ankle boots, bright pumps, and acicular togs paired with every article conclusively.
Katrantzou doesn’t just create clothes—she creates art. Every article and piece in the collection looks like it belongs in an art gallery or museum in Paris. Katrantzou emphasis what London Fashion Week is all about and stands for: innovation, creativity, and individualism.
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